Selvedge denim jackets are more than just clothing — they’re a piece of heritage. Built to last, age beautifully, and carry the marks of your life, they can easily become a go-to companion for years.
But if you’re buying your first one, it’s easy to get overwhelmed: Should you choose one wash or raw? Type 1, 2, or 3? Heavy or light denim? What is the ‘right’ fit?
This guide will walk you through five essential questions every first-time buyer should know, and then give you clear, simple recommendations so you can make the right choice today.
---
Five Key Questions
1. What’s special about selvedge denim jackets?
Made on old shuttle looms, selvedge denim has tightly woven edges (“self-edge”) that prevent fraying — which also leads to a long processing time and higher production costs.
The fabric is denser, stronger, and develops unique fades over time.
Historically tied to workwear, these jackets blend durability with vintage charm.
Buying tip: A selvedge jacket is an investment — the more you wear it, the better it looks.
---
2. One Wash or Raw (Unwashed)?
One Wash
- Pre-washed by the manufacturer to remove shrinkage and soften the fabric.
- Ready to wear immediately — no stiff break-in period.
- Ideal for beginners or those who want a hassle-free experience.
- Fades will still develop, but may be less dramatic compared to raw.
Raw (Unwashed)
- Comes straight from the loom — stiff, dark, and completely unshrunken.
- Requires an initial soak or careful handling to account for shrinkage.
- Offers the full fading journey: from deep indigo to personalized wear patterns.
- Initially less comfortable, but the fit and feel will mold perfectly to your body over time.
Which to choose for your first jacket?
If you want an easy, no-surprises fit → One Wash is safer.
If you’re excited about “earning” your fades and are okay with the work → Raw offers a satisfying long-term transformation.
Tip: If in doubt, start with one wash for your first jacket — you can always try raw later once you know your fit and preferences.
Also, check fabric weight: a raw selvedge denim jacket over 15oz can feel like wearing cardboard at first. Be ready for the break-in.
---
3. Type 1, Type 2, or Type 3 — what’s the difference?
| Feature | Type 1 | Type 2 | Type 3 |
| Era | 1930-50s | 1950-60s | 1960s-present |
| Pockets | Single chest | Two chest pockets | Two chest pockets |
| Buckle back | Yes | Mostly | No |
| Style | Shorter, boxy | Slightly longer | Slimmer, modern |
| Vibe | Strong Vintage | Balanced vintage | Timeless everyday |
Buying tip: Type 3 is the most versatile for modern wardrobes; Type 1 is for strong vintage appeal; Type 2 sits in between.
---
4. How heavy should your denim be?
12–14oz: All-season comfort, easier break-in — great for first-time buyers.
15oz+: Heavier, warmer, and more rigid — best for cooler climates and enthusiasts.
Buying tip: Start with mid-weight denim (12–14oz) unless you live in a very cold area.
---
5. How should a denim jacket fit?
Traditionally, selvedge denim jackets have a vintage cut:
- Shoulder seams sit right at your natural shoulder line.
- Sleeve length hits just at the wrist bone.
- Jacket length ends around the waist, not below the hips.
Modern brands, however, experiment with proportions — some offer longer bodies, slimmer sleeves, or more relaxed fits depending on the style.
If you’re buying raw denim, keep in mind:
- It will shrink after the first soak or wash (shrinkage varies by fabric and manufacturer).
- Check the brand’s shrinkage data before ordering.
- If you plan to layer thick sweaters or hoodies underneath, consider sizing up.
Buying tip: Fit is personal — aim for a comfortable shoulder, correct sleeve length, and body length that suits your style. Don’t compromise comfort for 'perfect fades.'
---
6. How do you style a selvedge denim jacket?
- Basics: White tee, jeans, chinos, or work pants.
- Layering: Shirts, knitwear, or a hoodie under the jacket.
- Footwear: Boots for rugged looks, sneakers for casual style.
Avoid matching the exact shade of your jeans unless you want the full “denim suit” effect.
Your Quick Pick Guide
First-time safe choice: One Wash + Type 3 + 12–14oz → Fits most people, ready to wear.
For collectors/vintage lovers: Raw + Type 1/2 + 14–15oz → Deeper fades, more story in the fabric.
Of course, denim jackets come in many more variations throughout history. Some heritage brands continue to reimagine these classics, blending vintage details with modern style. Which one speaks to you the most?